I set off yesterday on the first stretch of the long distance trail the 'Lady Anne's Way' - which runs from Skipton to Penrith. The 100 mile route has been planned around the idea of one of Lady Anne Clifford's journeys between her Northern properties - taking in the places of her birth (Skipton) and death (Brougham).
The route can be done as six (challenging!) stages - but I think I'll complete it more gradually, perhaps breaking up some of the days, as 16 miles is getting to be a bit of an ask!
However, to get things going I stuck with 'stage 1' as written in the guide, 15½ miles from Skipton to Grassington in Wharfedale.
It has been a baking-hot spring and summer, and yesterday was no exception. Fortunately there was a little bit of cloud cover and an occasional breeze in the river valleys.
The route starts by the Parish church in Skipton, which I visited last year. Not much time to linger on this occasion, but I grabbed a quick memento of Anne's regular habit of self-memorialisation - this time her initials (Anne Pembroke) in the restored church windows.
After that, it was up hill over a golf course and winding through the back of houses in the village of Embsay - all accompanied by beautiful sunshine.
The route crossed over Halton Edge to drop down into Wharfedale and the next example of Anne reclaiming and restoring her properties - literally cementing her reputation - Barden Tower.
As at Skipton Castle, and her other restored properties, Lady Anne had placed a memorial inscription over the entrance to the building.
The text reads:
THIS BARDEN TOWER WAS REPAYRD BY THE LADIE ANNE CLIFFORD COUNTESS DOWAGER OF PEMBROOKE DORSETT AND MONTGOMERY BARONESSE CLIFFORD WESTMERLAND AND VESEIE LADY OF THE HONOR OF SKIPTON IN CRAVEN AND HIGH SHERIFESSE BY INHERITANCE OF THE COUNTIE OF WESTMERLAND IN THE YEARES 1658 AND 1659 AFTER IT HAD LAYNE RUINOUS EVER SINCE ABOUT 1589 WHEN HER MOTHER THEN LAY IN ITT AND WAS GREATE WITH CHILD WITH HER TILL NOWE THAT ITT WAS REPAYRED BY THE SAYD LADY. ISA. CHAPT. 58. VER. 12. GOD'S NAME BE PRAISED!
Lady Anne had two marriages, the first to Richard Sackville ('a notorious wastrel and spendthrift') accounts for her 'Dorsett' title (he was Earl of the county) and the second to Philip Herbert (an ill-matched and loveless union) for 'Pembrooke' and 'Montgomery'. The title of Baroness of Westmorland was what had been denied Anne on the death of her father, and which she and her mother fought through the courts to try and regain. I spent a while puzzling over 'VESEIE' before deciding it probably refers to the title of 'Baron Vessy', which Anne's grandfather apparently tried to claim via marriage. Her role as High Sheriff gave her power over the selection of MPs and linked her into the regional assize courts.
The biblical text from the Book of Isaiah is another Lady Anne regular,
'And they that shall be of thee shall build the old waste places: thou shalt raise up the foundations of many generations; and thou shalt be called, The repairer of the breach, The restorer of paths to dwell in.'
Barden Bridge was a great spot for ice cream, the bridge was another one of the buildings financed by Lady Anne.
The next section of the walk was the most beautiful of the day, passing alongside the River Wharfe for several scenic miles.
My final photo is towards the end of the day, looking down over the village of Burnsall with the moors rising above it (taken after what was a really steep climb - sometimes photography does lie! 😀) From here the final leg took me through pastures into the village of Grassington, just in time for my bus back to Skipton. Only 84½ miles to go!
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Day 2 - Grassington to Buckden
I completed the second stage of Lady Anne's Way yesterday, 12½ miles from Grassington to Buckden. Accompanied on this occasion by 'her Ladyship' (my wife Nicky 😀) the route took to the hillsides, rather than following Lady Anne herself - whose route along the River Wharfe is now the tarmacked B6160.
The best of the weather was in the morning as we climbed towards the moors in the company of multiple Wheatears. The sky became more overcast as time went on, but the beautiful Dales scenery never disappoints...
The route descended to the river at Kettlewell and then meandered gently to a close at Buckden and a well earned drink in the Buck Inn.
The next stage will head up over the moors again, leaving Wharfedale to cross some wilder countryside and then drop down into Wensleydale.
Day 3 - Buckden to Hawes
The third day of Lady Anne's Way took me from Wharfedale into Wensleydale, to end (18 miles later) in the village of Hawes - home of Wensleydale cheese. I was a solo traveller again today, and following a couple of trains and then a couple of buses got walking from Buckden by 9.30am. Starting in fine weather the route climbed up and out of Wharfedale and over the peat of Stake Moss.
There were fantastic views down into Wensleydale - at least at first 😀.
The view below of Carpley Green farm and Addlebrough, was taken just before the first real rain came down. From then on it was very much a day of showers and brief periods of sunshine.
Other than the route itself the main tangible link with Lady Anne on this day of walking was the medieval pele tower and buildings of Nappa Hall. This was an overnight stopping point for Lady Anne on her progress from Barden Tower towards Pendragon Castle. Whilst not her own property, it was in the hands of a cousin, Thomas Metcalfe and apparently may also have been a resting place at various times for Walter Raleigh, King James I/VI and possibly even Mary Queen of Scots.
There was no stopping for me however - as I was keen to make Hawes before the local chip shop closed!
Tired and a little damp after eight hours walking I finally made it to journey's end (at least for this day) at the YHA Hostel in Hawes.
Day 4 - Hawes to Kirkby Stephen
'And the 6th day of this October in 1663 after I had layen in Skipton Castle in the Chamber wherein I was borne […] did I remove from thence onwards on my journie towards Westmerland, so as I went to Mr Cuthbert Wades House in Kilnsey and lay there that night. And the next day from thence through Kettlewelldale, upp Buckden Rakes and over the Staks into Wensleydale to my Cozen Mr Thomas Metcalfes house at Nappa, where I lay also that night. And the next daie being the 8th daie from thence I went over Cotter in my Coach (where I think never Coach went before) and over Hellgill Bridge into Westmerland, so by the Chappell of Mallerstang (I lately repayred) I went into this Pendragon Castle to lye in it again.' (The Diaries of Lady Anne Clifford' ed. DJH Clifford - Alan Sutton Publishing Ltd 1990)
It feels a good point to include a bit of Lady Anne's own account of her travels - as it summarises my own journey over four days of walking. On this stage of the walk I too climbed up to Cotter End and out of Yorkshire and visited the remains of Pendragon Castle where Lady Anne passed Christmas in 1663.
I refuse to believe Lady Anne ever broke her fast as tastily as I did at Hawes YHA, this was just the fuel I needed for another 18 mile trek!
The day started in low cloud, and the views back over Wensleydale were limited - despite the altitude (again the camera deceives - as it was a bit of a slog up to Cotter End!)
But the view ahead was brightening as I reached the broad path known as Lady Anne's Highway. The Settle to Carlisle railway came into view and the walking across the next stage was really exceptional.
The bridge over Hell Gill marked the transition out of Yorkshire - into the, now historic, county of Westmorland, over which Lady Anne had waited so long to become Baroness.
The desire for memorials and waymarks isn't limited to Lady Anne's age - and the sculpture 'Water Cut' by Mary Bourne, was a dramatic spot to look down into the Eden valley and the river I will follow now almost to the end of the walk.
Looking at the wide track descending the Mallerstang valley, overshadowed by Wild Boar Fell, it isn't that hard to imagine Lady Anne progressing in state through this scenery (all of which she of course owned) with her horse litter and carriages and retainers and tenants.
Pendragon Castle is now only a picturesque ruin, abandoned by later owners, but it must have been a welcome stopping point for Lady Anne and her entourage.
This was a fantastic day's walking which I'll long remember, ending up at the railway station at Kirkby Stephen and a scenic return trip through the Dales. Two thirds of the trail is now complete - and probably all of the moorland walking - but still over thirty miles and three castles to go!
Day 5 - Kirkby Stephen to Appleby in Westmorland
A selfie with Lady Anne to get the day going! (The rain-misted glasses were a sign of how this stage would largely progress).
The sculpture by Diane Lawrenson in Kirkby Stephen is entitled 'Lady Anne's Way' and was the first stop in a packed programme of sites and memorials. You could take issue with the idea of Anne Clifford actually walking (let alone barefoot!!), but the determined expression did seem to capture something important. The accompanying signage was also the first I've seen to highlight the legal battles between Anne and her Westmorland tenants - good to see that she doesn't go without some criticism.
From Kirkby Stephen I walked north across farmland on a very different red sandstone bedrock. No wonder it felt a bit familiar, I've later worked out these were Permian sandstone - just like the 250-300 million year old red rocks I grew up with in Exeter. Another brief flash of red came from a native squirrel 😀
Lunch was at Brough Castle - a restoration project for Lady Anne, although on this occasion its ruinous state was a consequence of her grandfather accidentally letting it burn down in 1521.
It had been a showery day - but a beautiful rainbow over Great Ormside near the end of the route marked a positive change in the weather.
A combination of working to a rigid railway timetable and the risk that one of my main aims in Appleby, the parish church, would be locked from 4.30pm meant the last few miles were taken at the gallop (something I am now 'repenting at leisure'). So I know I've not given Appleby the relaxed stroll it really deserves - a job for another day perhaps. But I did record at least some of the 'sites'.
Firstly Appleby Castle, with Caesar's Tower much in evidence. Assizes would be held here under Anne's auspices as Sheriffess - including treason trials in the Restoration period with defendants 'hung, drawn and quartered' in the grounds.
The Almshouses that Anne built in sight of the castle are currently closed for a major renovation - hopefully done as conservatively as Lady Anne undertook in each of the properties she restored.
Finally a lightening tour of St Lawrence's parish church - which Lady Anne set about repairing in 1655.
It was here that her mother, Lady Margaret, had been buried in 1616 - and Anne commissioned a magnificent alabaster memorial tomb (repositioned to its current site in 1894).
It now stands beside the memorial Anne had designed for her own final resting place - austere and obsessed with lineage and title - key elements of the contemporary narrative about her life.
What I'd not expected, and came as real surprise, were images displayed in the church from a relatively recent examination of the crypt in which Anne's body remains, undertaken in 2015 following concerns over flood damage.
The lead casket carries a typical 'Lady Anne Countess Dowager of etc...' plaque, but I was fascinated by the style of 'human' decoration - it seemed to be almost timeless. Taken on its own I would have struggled to place it culturally in either time or place.
Two memorable and contrasting images of Lady Anne to bookend the day.
Day 6 - Appleby in Westmorland to Penrith
By now it was taking nearly 3 hours just to get to the start of my walking day by train - and with about 20 miles to cover and a number of key sites to visit, something had to give. So on my final leg yesterday it was time to take a leaf from Lady Anne's book and do some of that travelling in 'style'.
In my case this was 'Stagecoach'™ rather than 'Coach' (or litter) - but it did make my final journey considerably more enjoyable.
There was a little time in Appleby to revisit a few of the sites I'd explored briefly at the end of my last day and see St Lawrence's Church in the morning sunshine.
Then it was on to the Stagecoach 563 bus service towards Penrith, passing through Kirkby Thorne and Temple Sowerby. I had to channel all my inner Lady Anne to 'persuade' the bus driver there was a timetabled stop on the service on the busy A66 (which there is), but I wasn't really taking no for an answer as there wasn't any alternative to get to where I was heading.
This was a site that isn't actually on the Lady Anne Way, but I'm glad I took a detour to find it. The Church of St Ninian - known as Ninekirks - is now 'redundant' and in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust, but was entirely rebuilt for Lady Anne Clifford in 1660.
Remote and very peaceful, the building is apparently largely unchanged, with only a Victorian porch added to the exterior - most of the interior is as Lady Anne would have known it (she records receiving 'the Blessed Sacrament in the Church called Ninekirkes' on Easter Sunday 1662).
This was a very special place.
There was so much to look at in even such a simple and relatively plain building - the one personalised memorial to Lady Anne is on the Chancel wall, the initials of Anne Pembroke within a wreath dated 1660.
After retracing my steps and taking my life in my hands re-crossing the busy A66, I was able to take a short walk up to.... Center Parcs!
Well, to the entrance anyway, where my next Stagecoach awaited.
Driven down to the edge of Penrith I was then able to track back towards my last couple of Lady Anne memorials. The first I had already seen briefly from the main road as the bus sped along.
This is 'The Countess's Pillar' - set up in 1654 by Lady Anne to mark the physical location of her last moments with her mother, Margaret Clifford. In Anne's words they 'had a grevious and heavy Parting' on that spot on 2nd April 1616. Margaret had given her a short lift in her coach from Brougham Castle at the start of a journey back to her husband in the south (who would give her 'but a cold welcome'). Margaret died the following month. The column is topped with sundials and family heraldry and the flat stone is where an annual dole bequeathed by Lady Anne was distributed - a ritual which is maintained to the current day.
The pillar is sited about a half a mile from my final stop on this historical pilgrimage, Brougham Castle.
Originally part of the defence system for Scottish lands conquered by the English (and sporadically reconquered) it passed into the hands of the Clifford family in 1268. It was the birthplace for Anne's father, George Clifford, and the place of death for both her mother and for Anne herself on 22nd March 1676.
Refurbished by Anne, it was judged to be one castle too many for her successors, who settled for Appleby castle and sold off its contents allowing it to deteriorate into scenic ruin.
Whilst the floors of the 'Pagan' keep are long gone, and the gardens are impossible to discern, Lady Anne's diaries still brought life to the ruins. This is her account from 1671 (in reverse) of the journey I had made that day,
'And the 17th day of August being Thursday, in the forenoone after I had layn in my Castle of Brougham in Westmerland in the Chamber wherein my Noble Father was borne and my blessed Mother dyed ever since the 14 of October last, did I go for a little while out of it into the Roome adjoining, being the middle Roome in ye great Pagan Tower, and into that part of it where my old servant Jane Bricknell dyed, and so came into my owne Chamber againe, where after a short stay I went from thence about 11 a clock of the same day through the little Passage Roome and the Painted Chamber and the Hall down into ye garden for a while, and from thence back into ye Court of ye Castle, where I took my Horslitter in which I ridd by ye Pillar that I erected in memory of my last parting there with my Blessed Mother, and so through Whinfield Park to Julian Bower; and from thence, out of ye Park I went over Eden Bridge and through the Townes of Temple Sowerby, Kirbythure and Crackenthorp, and down the Step Stones and over Appleby Bridge and near ye Church, and through Appleby Towne I came safe and well (I thank God) into my Castle of Appleby in the same Countie, about 4 a clock in the afternoon, my women attending me in my Coach drawn with six horses and my menservants on horseback and a great many of the chief Gentry of this Countie and of my Neighbours and Tenants accompanying mee in this my Removall. So after I was now alighted in this Appleby Castle, I went through ye Hall up into ye Chappell for a while, and into the great chamber and so up ye greene staires and through ye Withdrawing chamber into my owne chamber where I formerly used to lye, and where I had not been ever since the sayd 14th October last, until now.'
Anne's chamber at Brougham was on the second floor and so this view was one that she would have shared, the skyline of fells at least will have remained unchanged. This was the room in which she died at the age of 86.
So on the ninth day of September in the year of our Lord 2025, being a Tuesday, I departed from the Castle of Brougham, stopping at the gift shop where I had a cup of instant coffee and thence by the banks of the River Lowther to the town of Penrith, from where I was carried by Pendolino to Preston and then to York and thence to my own room in Bolton it being about nine o'clock, having walked 90 miles between the chambers in which Lady Anne Clifford Countess Dowager of Pembrooke, Dorsett and Montgomery, Baronesse Clifford of Westmerland and Veseie, Lady of the Honor of Skipton in Craven and High Sherifesse by inheritance of the Countie of Westmerland had been born and died. 😄
I've really enjoyed this trip, the walking in the Dales was a revelation and I can't wait to plan more trips on the Settle-Carlisle railway. I've dipped in and out of Anne Clifford's diaries as I've travelled and realised what an incredibly rich historical resource they provide. However, the trip also feels like a great way to say goodbye to module A223 and the Early Modern period. Returning home on the train I passed through a northern industrial landscape which owes much of its identity to the 19th century - so bring on module A225..... 'The British Isles and the Modern World, 1789-1914'.