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Steven Oliver

Early Modern Verona

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Thursday 11 September 2025 at 20:03

Verona was a lovely destination for the first (non-Alpine) half of our holiday this year - with plenty to see (between aperitifs 😂).

The map below shows the city in 1668, with walls (still standing) adapted to defend against artillery. This book was displayed in the Cathedral 'Chapter Library' - which claims to be the oldest library still in existence. 

The map shows the Castelvecchio, built in the 14th century and now an art gallery. The beautiful bridge had to be reconstructed in the post-war period as all the river crossings in the city were destroyed by retreating German forces in WWII (the castle was also largely gutted by Allied bombing) - conflict shapes so much of contemporary Europe.

We spent many 'long lunches' in the Piazza delle Erbe in the centre of the city. It was the main market place and one of the buildings in the square, 'La Berlina', has a set of measurement standards for traders - a ring to check bundles of wood and incised measures in the stonework for tiles and bricks.

One additional 'A223 feature' in the square were the remaining buildings of the original Jewish Ghetto in Verona. As in Venice (and I presume other cities) the constraint on Jews to live in a prescribed area, with no room to expand horizontally, led to distinctive 'high rise' buildings - like the seven story towers you can see below. 

As a marker of more modern tensions the nearby synagogue was under the watchful eye of heavily armed private security guards. 

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Steven Oliver

Clandestine catholics in York

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Tuesday 3 June 2025 at 21:11

Thought I'd share another fascinating York building that picks up on some aspects of the A223 module chapter covering the theme of religious (in)tolerance in the early modern period.

This is the frontage of the Bar Convent that stands just outside the walls of the city by the Micklegate Bar. The openly religious building on the left is a 19th century addition, built at a time when the catholic school which it housed could be openly acknowledged. The 18th century frontage was however designed as a grand, but entirely secular, town house (1786-9) - with nothing to indicate the interior.....


...which contains this beautiful chapel. 


Apparently the dome was designed to be entirely invisible from outside view. 

The convent was established in 1686 as the basis for a catholic school - with the chapel being being built in the 1770's. By that time the convent must have been an open secret within the city, but not something that could be too publicly visible.


The chapel also contains a gruesome reminder of 16th century religious persecution - in the form of a sacred relic, the preserved hand of St Margaret Clitherow. Margaret was the wife of a York butcher and lived on the Shambles, which is probably York's biggest tourist trap after the Minster (almost no-one notices or explores the house, which is now a religious shrine - too busy looking for Harry Potter merchandise!! 😂) When accused of harbouring catholic priests (she had been imprisoned previously for failing to attend protestant services) she refused to enter a plea and so was 'pressed' under rocks until she died. 

    

If you're ever in York, do think about checking out the Bar Convent as it's a hidden gem - it has an excellent museum and exhibition.

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