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Steven Oliver

A Grand Tour of Temple Newsam

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Sunday, 22 June 2025, 19:23

There are lots of potential A223 links with Temple Newsam on the outskirts of Leeds. You could go with the builder of the original house (finished around 1520) - Thomas Lord Darcy - who became embroiled in the Pilgrimage of Grace and was executed for treason as a consequence. Alternatively, you could fast-forward two hundred years to 1720, when Rich, the fifth Viscount Irwin, lost heavily in the South Sea Bubble - the family fortunes went through rocky times, dependent on a mortgage, until the next generation managed to marry into some serious money.

But on a recent visit I was drawn in by the display and story of Edward, fourth Viscount Irwin (brother of Rich, and in fact brother of Viscount Irwins 5 to 8 !!)

Edward is pictured below on the left, aged about 19 - the portrait on the right is his tutor, John Haccius. Apparently the portraits were commissioned as a pair at the start of Edward's Grand Tour when they were in the Netherlands - his trip would last from 1705-1707.  

Edward was supposed to be studying at the University of Leiden, but got himself involved in a duel, and had to get out of town quickly! He was still dependent on his family as trustees for his finances and apparently his correspondence home is largely about trying to get more money out of them. It seems his trustees were unhappy with John Haccius for not having kept better control of his student - and demanded that he was dismissed. Whilst this may have occurred, Haccius continued to travel with Edward as his Grand Tour took in Dusseldorf, Cologne and Augsburg and on into Italy, where he visited Siena, Rome, Lucca, Florence, Genoa and Venice.

Whilst in Venice (where he was recorded as 'making a commotion at Balls and at feasts' with aristocratic friends) Edward came into control of his finances - and had a number of artworks commissioned with the intention of decorating Temple Newsam - many are still displayed there, but Edward never had long to enjoy them - as he died of smallpox in 1714 aged 28.

I think it was the quality of the portraits which initially captured my interest - and then the elements of drama and story-telling in the display (this was presented in small boards and accompanying videos) which was based around examination of correspondence in the family archives. It also gave an opportunity to explore the research tool 'The Grand Tour' which was highlighted in the module - it includes a brief account of Edward's travels and the archival material held about them. 

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Steven Oliver

After the bubble had burst...

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Tuesday, 3 June 2025, 20:48

Thought I'd share a few A223-related images (and even some from A111) after a lovely visit yesterday [23/4/2025] exploring Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Gardens which are about an hour north of York on the A1. 

The site of Cistercian Abbey since around 1160 (monks from St Mary's in York fell out and branched off on their own), Fountains Abbey was dissolved in 1539 by which time it had become one of the richest monasteries in England on the back of wool trading.


By the mid-18th century it had become the most impressive of the many 'sights' in John Aislabie's pleasure gardens. Aislabie's link with A223 is that he was the Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1720 and probably the major political 'scalp' taken after the South Sea Bubble. Aislabie had been born in York, a clever younger son who made good, married well and rose in politics. 

Although he argued strongly in his defence, the House of Commons voted him guilty of the 'most notorious, dangerous, and infamous corruption' in promoting the South Sea scheme - he was fined £45,000 (the Bank of England's 'inflation calculator' puts that at a current value of £8.25 million) and sent to the Tower of London for a few months, but still allowed to keep assets with a current value of £21 million! He was banned from ever being an MP again - but his son William immediately took his parliamentary seat in Ripon 😄.

John was able to spend more time on the ultimate 'gardening leave' - and had these beautiful water gardens set out at his house at Studley Royal. They are listed as a World Heritage Site on the basis of exemplifying 18th century garden design, combining classical water features with 'naturalistic' landscaping. 

It felt quite natural to stop and take a photo every few yards - all the views were deliberately contrived, with the river straightened or shaped as desired and architectural follies distributed where needed - I'm sure I was only doing what the early modern visitor was intended to do!




The Aislabie's house at Studley Royal was destroyed in a fire in 1946, the building below is Fountains Hall and was built by 1604. This was created by owners of the Abbey land - and is of course made largely of recycled Abbey 🙂.


Along with Gothic ruins there were a couple of phases of 'Gothic Revival' on show in the grounds as well. The Octagon below was an 18th century viewing platform....


...and the Marquess of Ripon (who owned the lands and properties by the mid 19th century) had the church of St Mary's designed by William Burges (who we studied in A111) and built in 1870.


Plenty of colourful and curious detail and examples of the slightly eclectic architectural style Burges developed.



This wasn't my first visit - Fountains Abbey hosts one of the most beautiful Parkrun courses I've ever been on - but for this visit I was far less sweaty and far better informed!! 🤣


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