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Steven Oliver

'Rational Recreation' in 'Shock City'...

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Sunday 8 February 2026 at 17:19

I'd been hoping to get over the pennines for an 'A225-visit' to Manchester and finally got the chance for a whistle-stop tour early in 2026. 

First location was Manchester Art Gallery which holds one of two copies of Ford Madox Brown's 'Work', which graces the cover of 'Confidence and Crisis'. I've loved this painting for years and I see a little more every time. There are some good resources about it on the Manchester Gallery website.

What was really exciting this time though was to see a relatively recently acquired companion piece - 'Woman's Work - a medley' by Florence Claxton. Whilst Florence may not have known about Ford's painting they sit fantastically together. Claxton satirises the restricted working opportunities for women in a whole variety of ways (in Ford Madox Brown's painting women are at most able to give out some temperance leaflets or get hauled away by the police for selling fruit.)

The detail in Florence Claxton's painting is again fascinating - above the male 'false idol' reclining on his throne you can read 'The proper study of womankind is ...man' 😂

Next stop, Manchester Free Trade Hall. (If anyone wants a flashback to A113 and the sixties - it will be sixty years ago exactly in May since the famous cry of 'Judas' rang out there as the crowd reacted to Bob Dylan's abandonment of acoustic performance!) This was built in the mid-1850s to commemorate the repeal of the Corn Laws in 1846.

Land for the building was given by cotton manufacturer Richard Cobden, who was elected an MP with the support of the Anti-Corn Law League.

There's iconography across the building celebrating the advantages of 'free trade' and you can see the Anti-Corn Law League symbol of wheat sheafs in the detail below.

The building stands on what was once St Peter's Field, the location of 'Peterloo' - there is a commemorative plaque to mark this and just around the corner, in front of the Convention centre, is a specific memorial that was completed in 2019 for the two hundredth anniversary...

The symbolism on the Peterloo Memorial is again rich, detailed and political. There are images of tools and weaving paraphernalia, linked hands and a compass indicating the direction and distance of other public protests that were met with state violence: Blood Sunday in Northern Ireland, Tiananmen Square, Jallianwala Bagh/Amritsar... The steps commemorate individuals who died at Peterloo and the communities that participated. 

By lunch I'd made it to the Science and Industry Museum - the machinery was surrounded by screaming children, but now on trips from schools that equivalent 19th century Mancunian youth couldn't have imagined, and the screams were (as far as I could tell) of laughter... 

Next on my itinerary was the People's History Museum, which is an A225 'must-see' if you're in Manchester. 

There's just so much packed into a couple of galleries - and thanks to the OU and A225 - I found so much of it had interest and meaning. The following are just a few snaps of the material that was there.

Tom Paine's death mask and the table on which he wrote 'Rights of Man'...

Ceramic commemoration of Peterloo, with reference to the radical journal 'Black Dwarf' and 'Orator Hunt'...

Tin Plate Workers Society banner, from 1821. The museum has a fantastic array of flags and banners from groups and protests across the last two hundred years. This is their oldest union banner - I found it interesting to think what message they wanted to give by prominently including the Union Flag, perhaps that their aims were aligned with the 'true' national interest?

Outside again for perhaps a surprising figure - 'Honest Abe' stands tall in Lincoln Square. Originally destined for Parliament Square this statue ended up in Manchester when an alternative version was prefered for the London site. Local Manchester authorities argued that it should celebrate the response (welcomed by Lincoln at the time) of Lancashire textile workers to the 'Cotton Famine' in the 1860s.

We may study the past, but we live in the present.

Lincoln Square is the location for a 'camp' of homeless people, apparently 'migrants' who have been moved around a number of public spaces in Manchester in recent years.

My final stopping place was Chethams Library (it's Cheethams - I of course guessed it wrong first time 😂)  Originally a religious house, it was acquired by a very wealthy Manchester merchant, Humphrey Chetham, in the 17th century - whose will established a school and library in 1653.

This was a lovely place to think back on A223 and the growth and influence of the printed word across society. 

Humphrey Chetham also funded a number of chained libraries for local parish churches - stocked with Godly reading for local congregations (interesting to think who could have actually accessed these).

But it wasn't all A223 - there's one fabulous link to A225 in this little alcove...

In 1845 this was the regular meeting and study space for .... Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels. 

Outside the 'Hungry Forties' were biting hard in Manchester, here they would chiefly read economics texts from the library and discuss ideas that became the basis for the Communist Manifesto written a couple of years later. 

Have to say it was an exhausting day - but great fun. Of course Manchester was also a key site in the Women's Suffrage movement, so perhaps I might try and get back for a visit to the Pankhurst Museum watch this space! 😀

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Steven Oliver

Munich

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Friday 27 September 2024 at 21:54

I thought I'd post a few photos from a recent holiday in Munich that have an A113 link. They are of a couple of memorials in the city to Kurt Eisner. He was the leader of the U-SDP in the city, and seized the initiative in declaring a socialist republic in Bavaria during the German Revolution. The first memorial is on the site of his subsequent assassination in February the following year. He was shot by a far-right sympathiser whilst walking through the street - he was actually on his way to resign following national elections in which the U-SDP had gained very limited support. The memorial itself is of a shape on the ground, like the 'chalk outline' of a murder victim. The second memorial is also in the city centre, set up more recently in 2008 - I'm not sure the location has any particular significance - the quote translates as 'every human life should be sacred', taken I think from the initial manifesto for the republic. 





I found it fascinating to see what is, and isn't, memorialised in Munich - and how the city is going about acknowledging and responding to its 20thC history in particular.

The modern building below is the NS-Dokumentationszentrum München, Munich's Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism. It's location has particular significance as it stands on the site of what was the 'Brown House', the original headquarters of the National Socialist Party. 


Just beside the Documentation Centre are the remains of one half of the two 'Ehrentempeln', 'Temples of Honour' built to house the coffins of the Nazi members killed during the 'Beer Hall' putsch in 1923. These were the site of annual memorial parades once the national socialist party came into power in Germany. The majority of these structures was destroyed in 1947 as part of a policy of 'denazification', and the remains were going to be built over in the 1980's. However, following a campaign for more open examination of the city's role in the rise of national socialism a decision was reached to preserve these sites, and to establish the Documentation Centre.


The image below shows a Nazi Party parade on Königsplatz, November 9, 1936, the Ehrentempeln are the pillared structures at the entrance to the square.



Other elements remain of what was a distinct 'Party District' - the building below was the 'Führerbau', Hitler's specially built residence in Munich, the location for the signing of the 'Munich Agreement' that sealed the fate of Czechoslovakia in 1938. After being taken over by the occupying American forces at the end of WWII this has now become the location of a performing arts college.



The 'Hitler Putsch' in 1923 ended at the Feldherrnhalle (Field Marshalls' Hall) on the Odeonsplatz in central Munich and it was here that a brief gunfight resulted in the deaths of four policemen and sixteen putschists. The site was made into a memorial to the Nazi 'martyrs' and passers-by were required to honour then with the Nazi salute.




To avoid having to pass the memorial it was possible
to cut through an alley at the rear of the Feldherrnhalle called the Viscardigasse and this street acquired the nickname of 'Drückebergergasse' or 'shirker's lane'.

These small acts of resistance are now celebrated rather than mocked, in 1995 a line of bronze cobbles was set into the street as a memorial to those individuals who resisted Nazi rule. 

 


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Steven Oliver

Dublin day-trip

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Edited by Steven Oliver, Sunday 3 March 2024 at 18:08

I was lucky enough to manage a day trip to Dublin last week and packed in a fair bit of A111 and A113 😀

The following are just a few snaps from the day.


The GPO building where the Republic was proclaimed in 1916 - the museum was good (but pricey at €15) few of video installations featured historians who contributed to OU materials.


Garden of Remembrance that features in A111 and was opened in 1966


The iconography of 'celtic' weapons broken and cast into water as a mark of the end of hostilities


The Children of Lir - rising, resurrected, redeemed, reborn....


Just outside the Garden is this memorial to the formation of the Irish Volunteer Force on that spot (it was I think an ice rink then) in 1913 - in response to the earlier establishment of the UVF that is discussed in A113. 


Apparently Parnell's statue caused some controversy when it went up in 1911, I presume because he was then still a divisive figure. Really interested in what I assume are Roman 'fasces' under all the drapes, I think at this point in time they may have been used as a symbol of Republican 'unity'. It's also a classic Roman sculptural pose that we encountered in A111. 


Second sculpture by Oisín Kelly (the first was Children of Lir) - this one of James Connolly's comrade, Jim Larkin. A co-founder of the Irish Citizens Army and a staunch revolutionary socialist. 

He used the quote below in one of his speeches - it apparently harks back to the French Revolution and is generally credited to Camille Desmoulins.



From A113 the 'Liberator' Daniel O'Connell (plus obligatory seagull) gets centre stage with a monument and of course the main street (since 1924)


Kilmainham Gaol


Corridor where most of the 1916 rebels were held before execution.


The classic 'panopticon' prison design in the Victorian wing of KIlmainham Gaol. Éamon de Valera was a prisoner here and Hugh Grant danced down the steps at the finale of 'Paddington 2' (Noel Coward also celebrated the apparent achievement of the 'Italian Job' here)


A final look back into the stone-breakers yard and the spot where James Connolly was executed. It was interesting, given the reflection in A111 on contested memories, to hear that the prison wasn't initially promoted in the Free State as a 'hallowed' site - the fact it was also the place of execution of some anti-Treaty rebels made its heritage a difficult one, at least until Fianna Fáil gained power.

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